If you are passing by 51 Buckingham Gate close to Buckingham Palace, you might easily miss a small plaque above an entrance to a courtyard:
“On this site stood Emanuel Hospital
Founded 1594 by Lady Dacre
Re-established 1883 as Emanuel School”
Nowadays, the site is known as St James’ Court and is occupied by a rather exclusive hotel and adjoining apartments.
A large, framed photograph of Queen Elizabeth II in the hotel lobby, and an engaging chat with the concierge, hint that the hotel is where our late monarch would put up her esteemed visiting dignitaries and guests.
It is of particular personal significance for me, as I was practicing a guided walk here, with fellow Westminster Guides, when I heard the sad news of the Queen’s death.
Royal connections
But the royal connection with this spot began in a much earlier era.
In the late 16th century, Lady Anne Dacre, a cousin of the first Queen Elizabeth, made a provision to establish a charity, the Emanuel Hospital.
The hospital was initially intended as an almshouse for 20 poor people and a school for 20 poor children.
Sadly, Lady Anne Dacre died before the work could be completed, but the Queen herself made certain that the almshouse was built, just as Anne had wanted.
The Dacre Behest and its sister charity, the Emanuel Charity, have been Royal Charities since 1595.
Both still exist today.
And while the Emanuel School itself was not established until the early 18th century, it continued to expand until 1883 when a new, bigger site was sought on the edge of Wandsworth Common in South London.
The highly regarded school – now fee-paying rather than a charitable institution – continues to thrive in the same location to this day.
Major James Pawley
The site in Buckingham Gate was bought by James Pawley in 1897.
Pawley was trained and practiced as an architect, but became known as Major Pawley after he served during World War I.
St James’ Court was completed in 1902 and is considered his masterwork, but despite its magnificence, sadly, Pawley remains largely unknown these days.
He replaced the early 18th century buildings with eight 6-storey prestigious townhouses, five of which were built around a hidden central court:
Today, stepping from Buckingham Gate through the large archway and into the courtyard reveals the splendor of Pawley’s creation.
The ornate decoration comprises turrets, balconies, arches, cornices, columns and caryatids.
Delicate sea-green tiles adorn the ground and first-floor levels.
Floating immediately above this, around the entire courtyard, is a raised terracotta frieze depicting scenes from Shakespearean comedies: ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’, ‘Loves Labours Lost’, ‘As You Like It’ and ‘Much Ado About Nothing’.
A lovely, original Victorian cherub-laden cast iron fountain is a fitting centerpiece.
The courtyard feels like an oasis of calm, miles away from the busy surrounding streets.
If you do decide to pay St James’ Court a visit, you might be lucky and spot one of the hotel’s extensive fleet of vintage and classic vehicles – said to be the largest collection in the UK.
Highlights include the famous Downton Abbey Rolls Royce ‘’Gabriella’’ and the Queen Mother’s favourite Jaguar Daimler limousine.
Susan
